Bleeding Air Out?

Getting the pumbing right for your Diesel fuel feed..

Moderators: Dan J, Stuart, Diesel Dave, Crazymanneil

Post Reply
Rick
I luv the smell of Diesel...
Posts: 52
Joined: Sun Dec 03, 2006 11:32 am
Location: Michigan, USA

Bleeding Air Out?

Post by Rick » Thu May 31, 2007 12:50 pm

I'm new to the little single cyl diesels. I'm getting fairly close to completion on my project, and trying to fire the engine (for the first time) Chinese Yanmar clone. The "book?" that came with it ( more of a pamphlet really) says basically "bleed the air out by loosening the fuel line coming out of the injector pump" and that it MAY be neccesary to let the air out. It was test fired at the factory (so they say) and then the tank was drained for shipment. I don't have the wiring done yet, so it's pull only at this time.
Tried maybe 15-20 pulls last night to no avail. Any hot tips on bleeding a system? Exactly, step by step, how's it done? Thanks...

User avatar
LocomotiveBreath
I luv the smell of Diesel...
Posts: 249
Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 11:27 pm
Location: Route 66, Way Out West in California
Contact:

Bleeding air from system

Post by LocomotiveBreath » Thu May 31, 2007 8:43 pm

First I have to ask, what is the throttle setting when trying your last 15-20 times you have tried? Sounds like you’re trying to bleed the system with the throttle off (governor set at lowest setting).

If I were doing it, keep compression release on, set throttle at wide open throttle, and just crack (slightly loosen) injection line @ injector. Pull starter rope or let the starter motor engine over until you get fuel, then tighten injector line nut. She should be ready to fire after these procedures.

Please note: I used the term throttle, but in actuality we are dealing with the governor control. At the lowest setting it will allow no fuel (actual stop mode).

Good luck,
Dave
“Face piles and piles of trials with smiles. It riles them to believe that you perceive the web they weave, and keep on thinking free. "Moody Blues"

Rick
I luv the smell of Diesel...
Posts: 52
Joined: Sun Dec 03, 2006 11:32 am
Location: Michigan, USA

Post by Rick » Fri Jun 01, 2007 3:40 am

Thanks... but I got it figgered out later in the day. Only took about 3-4 good pulls and it popped a couple times... A few more and it took right off.
Not as loud as I expected either (with a straight pipe)
Got a few more little details to take care of, and it'll be time for it's virgin run down the road.....

User avatar
Byrdman
I luv the smell of Diesel...
Posts: 157
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 5:43 am
Location: Chicagoland, Illinois, USA
Contact:

Post by Byrdman » Fri Jun 01, 2007 4:21 am

Come on Rick, at least tease us with a few pictures of your progress.

Maybe a movie file????

User avatar
andrewaust
Site Admin
Posts: 719
Joined: Mon Dec 04, 2006 12:24 pm
Location: Australia
Contact:

Post by andrewaust » Fri Jun 01, 2007 2:32 pm

Yeah who can forget there first diesel bike start up and test run - what a memory.

Then again - the fact that I got the beast running around 10ish at night while the next door neighbors where having a party seemed like a good idea until I came back to find it had been gate crashed and the law in attendance :shock: I just very gingerly rolled on up the drive and put the yet to be registered bike away OOPS.

Always the way when you don't want to bring any attention to oneself :roll:

One word on the clone Yanmar - be sure to change the oil around the 1000 K mark, or a little earlier, as this will help with the running in process. The engine doesn't have a real good oil filtering system, so small particles can circulate in the oil.

There a great little engine all the same. 8)



Cheers - be sure to post some piccies



Andrew :wink:

oldbmw
I luv the smell of Diesel...
Posts: 337
Joined: Sat Dec 09, 2006 9:24 pm
Location: near Poitiers west France

Post by oldbmw » Sat Jun 02, 2007 8:29 pm

In my view there should be a first oil change at a very low mileage, 80 to 100 miles. Reason is that by then all the metal particles left by the manufacturing process will have been gathered up by the oil and in circulation. Think of it as a flushing operation. then run it in properly on new oil and proceed as recommended. Might seem a waste, but is only once in the life of an engine.

User avatar
balboa_71
I luv the smell of Diesel...
Posts: 257
Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 11:27 pm
Location: Fort Worth, Texas

first oil change

Post by balboa_71 » Sat Jun 02, 2007 10:41 pm

I'm with oldbmw on the first oil change being done early in the game to rid the engine of metal chips/filings. Also, stay away from synthetic oils until you have the engine good and broken in (maybe a year of riding). I myself, use Coastal 15w-40 diesel oil and buy it by the gallon. Coastal oil is budget brand oil sold at Autozone in the states, but meets all the Cummins and Detroit Diesel specs. It's at least $1 or 2 less than Chevron or Rotella gallon sized containers. Here in the US, it's hard to buy bad oil, but you have to get oils with the CC, CD spec. for diesel valve train. For you gasser motorcycle riders, this oil works well with wet clutched engines.

Cris
1980 GS850 converted to 10hp diesel clone power.
2006 Jetta TDI for road work.
2007 Bonneville

Rick
I luv the smell of Diesel...
Posts: 52
Joined: Sun Dec 03, 2006 11:32 am
Location: Michigan, USA

Post by Rick » Mon Jun 18, 2007 12:18 pm

Been real busy the last couple weeks. Prepping the house for my son's graduation party. But I did manage to get the battery/starter hooked up so I can light it up anytime I want. Had about 10 guys in the shop saturday (during the party) looking it over. I HOPE to be able to take it on it's virgin run in a couple days. All I have to do is finish the throttle assembly, and rig up a pedal stop for the rear brake. No wiring on it yet, but that'll come later.
As far as video clips? Well, I ain't THAT talented.. I'll try to get a couple still shots of it up in the next couple days..

Post Reply